Metrosexual has been ?

Ken metrosexual and Barbie fashionista : already has been ?

Welcome to the world of the recessionista and the übersexual. The homo consumerus mutates, a neoconsumer emerges.

Last evolutions of a male and a female consumer which are being conditioned by a manipulating and conformist media society.

Layout :

--> Chapter 1: METROSEXUAL, ÜBERSEXUAL AND EVEN NOVOCASUAL or how media create a new masculine ideal to make the market of men's clothing and cosmetics market explode in a context of crisis

--> Chapter 2 (next article): FROM THE FASHIONISTA TO THE RECESSIONISTA or how fashionistas are able to remain addicted in an economic recession, defining a new way of consumption

Chapter 1 : METROSEXUAL, ÜBERSEXUAL AND EVEN NOVOCASUAL or how media create a new masculine ideal to make the market of men's clothing and cosmetics explode in a context of crisis

Part 1: FROM THE METROSEXUAL TO THE NOVOCASUAL.. THROUGH THE RETROSEXUAL AND THE ÜBERSEXUEL

A) THE METROSEXUAL....

A new kind of man emerged a few years ago. Both genders had to redefine manliness. Women emancipated themselves and nowadays men have to show that they are also discriminated. How? In a different way. They have to be "men", to conform to society's patterns.... While women set themselves free from their pattern of "desperate housewives", men are still condemned to be macho and prehistoric caricatures. Thanks to extreme feminism....

However, the "strong" sex is getting stronger. Men are able to show that taking care of themselves is not to be put in a contradiction with the assertion of their masculine identity. At the opposite, it redefines them and makes them more attractive. As for those who object that a man who takes care of himself is gay, they finally understand that this statement is as stupid as saying that a woman who does not like shopping is not a woman.

The Metrosexual uses a $40 face cream, wears fashion shoes and custom-tailored shirts. His hair looks perfect thanks to wonderful shampoos and hair grooming products. The metrosexual enjoys shopping and reading groomy magazines. He is not surprised when a woman tells him that she has more than fifty pair of shoes.

What has changed? Men with manners, men acting like women have always existed. To what extent is it new? Why was the new concept of metrosexuals necessary? ....because some of them are definitely straight. They love women. YES, heterosexuals can be interested in fashion, design and shopping.

The term "metrosexual" is a portmanteau of two words: metropolis and heterosexual. A metrosexual is a straight young urban man willing, even eager, to embrace its "feminine" sides. Marketers love them. They live in big cities. They have a high standard of living. They are style-obsessed shoppers and vain enough to spend a lot of money to look good and be well dressed up.

The Metrosexual is a pretty old term. It first appeared in a The Independent article by the British journalist Mark Simpson published in 1992.

If I caused you to get lost, I suggest you to read the guide in order to get a better understanding of this concept... I assure you there is a guide --> The Metrosexual Guide to Style: A Handbook for the Modern Man (by Michael Flocker). The essentials of "metrosexual" savoir faire: How can the average guy keep up with this new version of cool? Filled with entertaining anecdotes, famous quotes, dos and don'ts and recommendations, The Metrosexual Guide to Style covers everything from dining out to fashion and personal style and home décor.

In short, the METROSEXUAL is the ideal that Ken has to REACH. If he does not succeed, he will be thrown away because he is too old-fashioned. Indeed, the phenomenon of "metrosexualization" has become more and more important.... for the best and the worse. Straight guys can also be stylish and victims of our beloved society of hyperconsumption.

B) ..... RAPIDLY JOINED BY THE RETROSEXUAL AND THE ÜBERSEXUAL

A few years after the conceptual birth of the metrosexual, the "retrosexual" arrived, that is to say the male who refuses to be in, who is retro, who does not like shopping and who does not use perfume. Once the world divided, old-fashioned retrosexuals vs trendy metrosexuals, one realise that most of men don't fit to any of such patterns. They are too "evolved" to be striclty retrosexuels but too conservative to metrosexualize themselves and so feminize themselves! What is the new masculine ideal then? Maria Salzman, Ira Matathia and Ann O'Reilly give us a quite precise overview in their new book The Future of Men.

According to them, the new ideal is übersexuality. Who is the übersexual who replaces the metrosexual a little bit too fast? This term derives from the German word über (= above, superior). It refers to a man similar to a metrosexual but who displays the traditional manly qualities such as confidence, strength and class - leaving no doubt as to his sexual orientation. He has a great style and a brilliant career. He is passionate. He remains totally masculine but is still sensitive to others' feelings and respectful to women. It looks like the metrosexual is evolving...

THE FIVE MAIN DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE METROSEXUAL AND THE ÜBERSEXUAL

1- The metrosexual dresses according to the latest fashion shows, while the übersexual dresses nicely based on his own reflections. 


2- The metrosexual spends his time grooming his hair, beautifying his look, while the übersexual rather thinks and "beautifies" his thoughts. Of course he might groom himself with expensive products but he would never highlight, wax or self-tan.

3- The metrosexual seems to be only excited when it comes to fashion and beauty, like an obsession, while the übersexual is "able" to talk on any topic.

4- The metrosexual has many girl friends (and sometimes bitches), while the übersexual has male buddies and also enjoys female friends.


5- Both go to the gym but not for the same reasons. The metrosexual wants to expose himself during parties, while the übersexual just wants to be healthy and comfortable with his appearance.

What should we conclude then? Is the metrosexuel too "gay" and not "heterosexual" enough? Not proud of his masculinity? Why on earth wants Ken to be metrosexual before being übersexual? Because a retrosexual chronologically has to be a metrosexual before reaching a more subtle position: the one of the übersexual. This übersexual characterises the man from the 21st Century who has got rid of his inhibitions thanks to the metrosexualization of society but who wants to avoid looking like a fashion victim addicted to shopping and cosmetics.

There is a tendency to exaggerate and disparage the metrosexual in order to emphasize the übersexual. Metrosexuals are credited with all bad characteristics. The übersexual would have been freed from the most embarrassing: too feminized, too victim of consume society, too vain, too superficial,....

C- LINKED TO SEXUALITY?

Does the übersexual concept mean that gay people can't be virile, strong, sensitive and self-determined? No. Sexual orientation has nothing to do with the label. A lot of gay people are over stylish. A lot of straight people are retrosexuals but there is also a lot of straight übersexuals and gay old-fashioned retrosexuals. Of course this categorization is a new way of describing the personalities of millions of people who can't be the same but it has at least nothing to do with sexuality. Sexuality is not directly linked to a lifestyle and a look. At this point, we would prefer the division of the masculine world into peasant retrosexuals and metropolitan übersexuels than into straight and gay people even though both categorizations simplify and misinterpret reality.

Why being permanently and strictly categorized anyway, whatever regarding our sexuality or lifestyle?

D- PRACTICAL APPLICATION OF THIS SCHEMA: MARKETING EXAMPLE OF L'OREAL

L'Oréal Paris took an interest in current masculinity. The brand did some research and questioned diverse specialists (analysts, coaches, sociologists, journalists, fashion,...). The profile of the new man has been identified. L'Oréal has baptized... the NovoCasual. What's that? Another avatar derived from the metrosexual....?

The NovoCasual is reconciled with main components of his identity: virility, creativity, sensibility, seduction and charisma. In any situation, he shows his virility, his uniqueness and his creativity. With a casual attitude, he is able to adapt himself. Perfect father and husband. Best "buddy". Successful professional. His best ally remains his look. He has no inhibitions taking care of his body. The NovoCasual is the perfect consumer for L'Oréal Paris.. !

Once the profile determined, the brand needs a face to embody and promote this new ideal of masculinity. Patrick Dempsey has been chosen. He represents Men Expert: Patrick Dempsey the sexy Dr. of the show Grey's Anatomy would be like most men of the 21st Century, that is to say natural, nice and seductive in any circumstances. He is relaxed in VIP parties as well as in a supermarket. Groomed but casual. He is the "NovoCasual". Got it, guys?.... To succeed, one has to be like Patrick Dempsey.

Contrary to major brands of prêt-à-porter and haute couture, L'Oréal chose not to impose a western face in emerging markets like Asian ones. In Kuala Lumpur, one would be amazed how many adverts for L'Oréal MEN there is. Asia has its own Patrick Dempsey, a symbol Asian people can identify with. A symbol yet not too far from western beauties.

Stand for men in the L'Oréal shop of KLCC Suria (luxurious shopping center

in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia), near the Petronas Towers

In the underpass from the subway station

to the shopping center, it clearly appears

how serious the mass-marketing strategy

in Asia is. Walls are not walls but adverts. 

These adverts are in the English and Malay

languages. A sign of globalization but also

a proof that the brand L'Oréal adapts itself 

to the Asian market which is very "fond" of

cosmetics.

The NovoCasual is a natural man. He takes care of himself and is proud to do so. However, he does not want to be a slave of his look, of others' look, of anabolic and slimming cares. In that sense, he is the heir of the ÜBERSEXUAL. That is why L'Oréal Paris has developed efficient and specific cares that can be used every day. Let's have a look at this market and understand how it emerges and can be subtly conditioned.

Part 2: THE MAN IS THE FUTURE OF FASHION AND COSMETICS.....

A) An emerging market...

The men market has been booming since a couple of years. In the next decade, we can expect a huge blossoming. We will use the French market as an example because it is quite representative of the European market and because a lot of cosmetics brands are French.

Men are the new targets. That's for sure. Brands try to adapt. They open specific shops or redesign them (butterfly design in the DIOR shop in Paris for the fall / winter collection). Metrosexuals belong to a high purchasing power category and are easy targets. However, the more traditional male clientele still needs to be confident while shopping. Men often long for a complete new look and lifestyle. However, they do not dare as they need to be guided. Since 2007, the Bon Marché proposes private stylists for custom-tailored advice.

Men's cosmetics market is nowadays dynamic and promising. Major brands in
the women's cosmetics market like Clarins and L'Oréal launched specific ranges: Clarins For Men (2002) and L'Oréal Men Expert (2004). Both were successful. Since a couple of years, marketing strategists have made men aware that taking care of themselves doesn't call into question their virility, associating them to an effiminate or homosexual universe.

What is there in the middle of a Lancôme stand in the luxurious shopping center of Buenos Aires (Galerias Pacifico)?

.... An advert for Lancôme MEN of course!

B).... BOOSTED THESE PAST FEW YEARS BY A WELL-PREPARED EDUCATION OF MALE CONSUMERS

« Nous devons prouver aux hommes qu'il existe des soins qui leur sont spécifiquement destinés »

« We have to prove to men that some care products are specifically done for them.»

Christophe Novelli, French manager of Nivea For Men

The key for expansion is the education of consumers. Men have to get used to cosmectics and be convinced that they remain masculine in spite of care products.

First strategy : create cares men can identify with. Packaging, klick, smell, texture, etc... make the care more masculine.

Second strategy : segmentation of ranges according to each clientele. 15-25 years old customers take care of their look. 20-30 years old usually want to hydrate their skin. After-shave Creams remain the most important care. They must have light textures with fast penetration.

C) MAN : SEXUAL OBJECT BECAUSE HE (It?) IS WORTH IT

Did feminists win their fight? Maybe they did, but we still wait for "masculinists" to assert themselves. Men are used as objects just like women. Men are reified through advertising. Therefore, metrosexualization of society has darker aspects. Not that delightful...

A metrosexualization is firstly a SEXUALIZATION..... Men become sexual. They get naked, used, merchandised. Men match up to women in the field of consumption while being reified, whereas women profesionally and socially matched up to men while taking power. Feminists might be proud:we have a balance for the best... and above all for the worst. Adverts show retouched, perfect, dreamlike and western bodies. They erase differences; make "real" people feel guilty, benefit from our frustrations. This danger increases because such adverts can be seen everywhere.

Showing a naked man in an advert is pretty new. It started a few years ago with adverts such as this one.

In the early 2000s, famous brands were presenting "porno chic". A few years later, phallic symbols are omnipresent and recurrent. Penis, buttocks, low waist. Every single part with erotic potential is used. Is there no complex anymore? A recent advert (2009) in Argentina (usually well-known as a male chauvinist country) for a beer (a typical masculine product) may surprise. Have men got rid of their complexes?

It has become so normal for naked women to denounce it and fight. However, who reacts for men? For instance, each of you has probably already seen Dolce Gabbana's ad campaigns in fashion magazines. The following ad was forbidden and provoked a scandal. The woman would be seen as dominated. The scene would stand for a collective rape.

Then why does nobody protest against naked men next to styled women.... ? THE consumer notices how classy women are and how... naked men are... with everything it implies. Let's have a look...

Dolce Gabanna went too far for a prêt-à-porter brand. Here are some pictures of the calendar they sold in 2007:

Why going so far? The market has a huge potential. Traditional men are not targeted but gay people (who love such ad) and women. Men products are still bought at 80% by their wives / girlfriends. As a consequence, ad should make women fantasize. Men unconsciously hope to look like models thanks to this kind of products. What a dangerous illusion! Even Models don't look like themselves. They have been retouched and made up to look perfect.

D) Blogosphere : creme de la creme

Fashion men's magazines such as Vogue or L'officiel may be outstripped by a huge amount of blogs or websites. Internet is the driving force behind the development of men's market. If Ken could only mention two addresses, he would mention Mensrag and the incontrovertible The Fashionisto.

Mensrag

www.mensrag.com

A blog on the prowl for the latest trends in the men's world. Fashion. Art. Music....

Reports on fashion shows are particularly well done.

The Fashionisto : THE blog to know for men's fashion

thefashionisto.com

old design (above) .... new design (below)

Thanks to daily updates, this blog is a bible. It became so successful that it gave birth to "babies". FASHION GONE ROGUE, concerning women, is also marvellous (www.fashiongonerogue.com). Today, on March 30th, a very rising "baby", THE FASHIONISTO DIARIES starts (http://thediaries.thefashionisto.com). Be sure that we will report on it again.

To Conclude the 1st Chapter:

The excessive metrosexualization and men's sexual reification arise from advertisement and marketization of all layers of society. The expanding market has a promising future, especially in Europe where the women's market can't be expanded anymore. The recession forces western brands to look for new and emerging markets such as men's market and Asian market.

Maria Salzman who invented the übersexual is.... in advertising. People who are in advertising invent concepts. These concepts don't necessarily correspond to reality. They have to create a reality (like the metrosexual) more than reflecting one.

What Ken Metrosexual reports about is yet rather serious. This blog concerns the heart itself of our hypermodern society. For instance, Obama remains a relevant example of the ÜBERSEXUAL man (George Clooney, Bill Clinton and Barack Obama are in the TOP 5). Since a couple of years, everything is related to image, beauty, desire, seduction and consequently... sex! This phenomenon is not recent but the hold of advertisement and marketing on our society increased it. It seems harmless (ad for perfume, promotional campaigns for ready-to-wear, etc...) but that threatens the most the integrity and the dignity of our metropolitans. A surface not so superficial.